TO TSHO ROLPA AND THE ROLWALING VALLEY- THE UNSUNG TREKKING PARADISE

Some anecdotes are unbelievable, and some stories are incomprehensible. Especially when they are built on accounts of some breathtaking experiences in the lap of nature. Traveling has always been a medium for people to experience extraordinary, soul pleasing emotions that become engraved in their memory for years and years. For me, personally, trekking in the deep, scantly explored environments provides more joy than anything else in the world. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that trips which take us to the edge of our awe change us as a person. In that sense, being born in Nepal is a privilege not everyone has access to. It is reflected in the fact that even deciding your trekking destination is a big task given the options you have. Where will go for your next trip? Rara? Phoksundo? Tilicho? Annapurna Base Camp? You’re loath to give one option up for the other. All of them provide the same extraordinary experience you long for. It’s a tough choice, whatsoever. It is incredible how a trip of a few days and just a few hundred kilometers can have so much impact on your life.

Planning for treks is tricky. Plan too early, and the uncertainties might kick in and force us to make schedule changes or even abandon the trip. Plan too late, and you’ll probably lack in preparation. It is a difficult balance but studying in detail and making arrangements before is absolutely vital, and helpful. After some detailed research, I planned a trip to the Rolwaling Valley and Tsho Rolpa Lake (No! it’s not in Rolpa). A remarkable journey through the less talked about trek, through dense forests, culture rich Sherpa villages, and a true Himalayan valley trail. Luckily for me, things went well and on a chilly April morning, I left for the solo adventure I’d been dreaming for good three months. Trekking solo has its own pitfalls and perks, and the difficulty of the trek determines if you should go solo, but this trip to me felt like the best bet. 

The journey to the Rolwaling Valley and Tsho Rolpa starts from Chhet Chhet, a small stop located alongside the Tamakoshi River a few kilometres away from Singati. Singati is the last big town in the route that starts from Kathmandu, and continues via Charikot. A three hour uphill hike from Chhet Chhet will take us to Simi Gaun at 2000m altitude which marks the first point of the trek. The trek continues through forest trails that engulf us in the forest with Rhododendron trees on the either side of the path. Through the thick dense forest, we walk through small villages like Uttise, Surmuche, Kyalche, and finally reach Dongang, which is the common stop for day two of the trip. Dongang is the true starting point of Rolwaling valley where we can actually feel the breath of fresh Himalayan air and find yourself in the lap of a Himalayan valley. Dongang to Beding is another journey that is full of extreme solitude and rich experience of the dense forest. The mystifying views of the hills encircling us and the thick forest combined with the continuous sound of the Rolwaling River make for an enthralling experience. Mount Gaurishankar (7134m), a mountain of high religious importance is also a major attraction of this journey and is visible throughout most parts of the trek. Daldung Peak nearby is another attractive trekking destination just across the river on the way to Beding.

Rolwaling valley is protected under Gaurishankar Conservation Area Project and it’s no surprise that one might get a glimpse of wildlife, especially the sound of chirping birds that stay with us for the most part of the trek. The trail is in excellent physical condition and very easy to follow. Markings and signs have been managed extremely well. The trek feels so peaceful since the number of trekkers visiting this region is relatively very low. In some ways, that is blessing in disguise, simply because it feels all pristine and unscathed. After six hours of trek from Dongang, we reach Beding. The most populous village in the valley with rich cultural values and a big monastery. Some trekkers prefer to stay and reach the upper cliff monastery (cave) while they acclimatize for an extra day at an altitude of nearly 3700 metres.

The next day we reach Na village continuing through a rugged trail passing by yaks grazing alongside. Surrounded by rocky mountains on either sides, the view is simply gorgeous. As we leave Na (4190m) and proceed towards the Tsho Rolpa Lake, we encounter some serene silent plains which is such a breathtaking experience. Just as we cross the final bridge before a steep climb towards Tsho Rolpa, we have a route split which takes us to Dudh Kunda (4700m). Dudh Kunda is a very steep climb with no clear route( we got to rely on a few markings and stone pillars) and an extra three hours of a very technical hike, but the views of the glacier and mountains we get from there is worth all the pain. Consequently, most hikers prefer to take a guide, because of the difficulty in finding a route back from Dudh Kunda to Tsho Rolpa. 

Three days of Trek up the Tashi Lapcha Pass will take us to Namche in the Khumbu region, the gateway to Mt .Everest. This region borders the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Project (GCAP) and Sagarmatha National Park on the other side of the pass. The Tashi Lapcha pass is a difficult and highly technical climb, but is often conquered by skilled trekkers, albeit sparsely. The region also boasts some peaks standing more than 6000m in altitude, also occasionally climbed by some mountaineers.

  Tsho Rolpa is a visually stunning lake, like most of those in Nepal. It’s gigantic yet absolutely majestic. It is also one of the largest glacier lakes in the country. Not so long ago, it was feared that the lake would suffer from Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (GLOF) at any time. Despite the lake growing in size, measures have been taken to release water from the lake and prevent possible catastrophes. The risk still exists but mitigating measures are in place. Depending on what time of the year we visit, the lake is either frozen, or all water. The calmness, the serene ambience, the chilly winds, and the sheer brilliance of the light reflecting from the pond makes us contemplate and stare into the heart of nature and relive your experience of being alive. It might sound like an exaggeration, but there is something about these places that has us lost for words trying to explain.

 The way back to where we started from is suddenly a different journey now. All that you’ve achieved in the trek now fill you with some extremely invaluable experiences. It is impossible to return as the same person you went there. Life is full of umpteen experiences, positive or negative. With treks like these, you will certainly collect a lot of positive energy which isn’t essentially gained from anyplace else. 

As I chose a different path to descend to Chhet Chhet, via the confluence of Rolwaling and Tamakoshi River, I started to feel as if the trek was too short. I just wanted to spend a few more days in the Himalayan air. The air, the sun, and our own self are effectively the same regardless of where we are, but our own true self is only realized when we are submerged in the Shangri-La that is accessible to us within the boundaries of our own country. It is such a satisfying realization that our own lands possess divine powers of triggering higher levels of self-actualization inside us.